Mission Codename: The Pope’s New Castle – Redux

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Acquire the next vintage of the exceptional Clos du Roi CDP from Chateau Gigognan.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Château Gigognan

Wine Subject: 2004 Clos du Roi Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Winemaker: M. Jean Roure

Backgrounder:

A couple months ago we featured the 2003 vintage of this excpetional wine. We just acquired an exclusive allocation of the 2004 vintage of this wine, and its arguably even better.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) is among this spy’s favorite Rhone wines. With each wine being a distinct blend of up to 13 different varietals (usually lead off with Grenache, France’s work-horse grape, with the trend leading to more Syrah and Mourvedre based blends). The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape dates back to the 14th century during the time of the dual papacy.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape comes in two distinct styles, the more traditional ’Old World’ (like this one) are dark, rich and spicy with firm tannins that lend these wines to cellaring; and the more contemporary fruit-forward style more reminiscent of New World wines.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Garnet and ruby hued with a medium dark but clear core. Lighter ruby to pink edges with clusters of both fast slender and slow chubby legs.

Smell – Well developed and complex bouquet of spice, dusty earth and ripe wild raspberry with hints of fennel and licorice, floral violets and a touch of vanilla caramel oak.

Feel – Full and rich with an initially smooth attack that is immediately followed by a dry, firm and well structured tannins on the mid-palate becoming slightly chewy as you explore the range of flavors of this wine.

Taste – Classically old-world with exceptionally well balanced fruit components of blackberries and wild raspberries over a base of dusty earth components, hints of spices including black pepper and licorice and oak and tobacco notes.

Finish – Long, round and lingering, with balanced flavors of its earthy and spicy notes over its fruit and oak components.

Conclusion – This CDP is fully thought provoking, letting you explore the intricacies of perhaps one of the most classic of French red blends. Despite labels and bottles which may seen intimidating, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is exceptionally accessible. The unique blends make each Chateau’s wine fun and unique. These wines are full and rich with great fruit, spice and great earthy components that represent the regions unique Terroir and exceptional tradition. This Old World wine makes a perfect complement to a wide range of foods, especially rich meat dishes.

Mission Report:

A couple months ago both Agent White and Agent Terroir initially infiltrated Chateau Gigognan. Below follows that mission report.

Dateline: July 18, 2008.

Location: Nimes, France, near the Rhône Valley

Agent Terroir had done an exceptional job of getting me to see a few of the great mountain finishes on this year’s Tour de France. After three spectacular days in the Pyrenees. We had loosely followed the tour through the South. Next stop the Alps, but we still had a few days and with the tour stopping in the historic town of Nimes, famous for its Roman vestiges, the Maison Carrée (Square House temple), Magne Tower, and Pont du Gard bridge it seemed like a goo point to take stock in our journey.

Tomorrow’s stage would take us to Digne-les-Bains, but now, only a few miles from the great wine village of Châteauneuf du Pape (CDP) I decided to make a short visit.

When I mentioned my intentions to Agent Terroir his eyes grew big and there was a noticeable feeling of excitement in his face. He had connections in Châteauneuf du Pape. Most notably the Callet family with vineyards in du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages and Châteauneuf du Pape.

I was most interested in the CDPs. They are among the most unique and varied, and yet surprisingly accessible wines of the southern Rhône. A quick drive and we had arrived at Château Gigognan where we were immediately greeted by M. Jean Roure, the manager of the entire operation. Before we knew it we were in the tasting room, surrounded by a dozen glasses each, tasting a great selection. Oh, how this job is tough…

The best of which was a flight of their Clos-du-Roi CDPs. Starting with the 2003 vintage (the 2004 vintage, you’ll have to wait for)! For those unfamiliar with these great wines, they can be any permutation of up to 13 different varietals, but are mostly lead off with the Rhône’s dominant grape, Grenache. In this case, Château Gigognan’s CDP is mostly Syrah and Grenache and is made in the traditional style.

If you love rich, full-bodied, dark and spicy wines, be sure to pick up a few bottles. And if you have the patience, save one, as in the near future we will be featuring the 2004 vintage of this same wine. A perfect opportunity for you to recreate my vertical tasting.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Château Gigognan can be seen in this satellite photo.