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Posted: Oct. 3, 2008 - 0 comment(s) [ Comment ] - 0 trackback(s) [ Trackback ]
Category: Wine Review

Mission Codename: Endless Summers

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Secure another stellar 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Summers Winery

Wine Subject: 2004 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Ignacio Blancas

Backgrounder: Napa Valley is widely acknowledged as ultimate area in which to produce Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 vintage has produced some of the most amazing examples on record. Today we send Agent Red to Summers Winery, where winemaker Ignacio Blancas makes wines of great quality and remarkable distinction. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report below

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep, rich ruby red in color with deep concentration of color right to the edges and throughout its dark burgundy heart. The surface of the wine is tight and light in appearance; it settles very quickly when swirled, leaving behind 2 layers of chubby legs that crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – Rich, dusky and dark concentrations of ripe purple fruit, cassis, cranberry, blackberry, vanilla and a hint of fresh herbs

Feel – Bright and round at the beginning of the sip, then soft tannins gently emerge on the mid-palate, roof of your mouth, then your cheeks, drying slightly as the wine coats your mouth

Taste – Complex and bold with brightly layered flavors of rich black cherry, cassis, smoky light plum, blackberry, subtle tobacco and a gentle minerality

Finish – Long and slightly dry, with big and integrated flavors that linger

Conclusion – A delicious wine that delivers a very balanced experience. Concentrated, but not overpowering, bright, but not light-hearted, this wine is flavorful and delicious – with a terrific feel and beautiful aromatics.

Afterward – Decant this wine for an extended period for best results. After 4 hours, the wine becomes even more balanced and delicious!

Mission Report:

With harvest and crush keeping most wine producers very busy, I sometimes have to rely on other sources for the intel I gather. Like any accomplished spy, I have developed numerous assets throughout all parts of the wine business.

Developing an asset can sometimes take great patience – and time. Other times all it takes is well-timed gift (okay, a bribe). I won’t tell you how I came to procure the inside skinny on today’s wine, but I will tell you that it came from a winery insider. Sometimes, dear Operative, I can’t reveal my sources, not even to you.

What follows is the transcript of my brief conversation with [redacted]:

AGENT RED: Listen, I know how busy you are, so we can make this brief. Tell me, with everything that’s going on with harvest and crush, whats the mood at the winery?

ASSET: Busy, but very upbeat. We’re expecting rain tomorrow, so we’re quickly picking all of the fruit that is ready.

RED: And you’re leaving some grapes on the vine?

ASSET: Yes, the Cabernet Sauvignon. We almost always see a rain that’s followed by an Indian Summer. This sets up the Cab nicely.

RED: How are the 2008’s looking?

ASSET: Fantastic! We expect great things!!

RED: Were you hit by the frost this year?

ASSET: Yes, but the outcome was a happy one. Where many wineries lost a great deal of fruit, the blocks that were hit here are high vigor and usually require hand-thinning. The frost did the thinning for us. I was a blessing in disguise!

RED: Lucky, indeed. Tell me about Ignacio, your winemaker.

ASSET: Well, he started here, years ago, as a vineyard worker. He had a real talent for grapes and quickly became Vineyard Manager and then Cellar Master. During that time he studied and worked under our former winemaker.

RED: And then a few years later?

ASSET: He became our winemaker. Having worked in all parts of the process, Ignacio grew to become intimately familiar with our vineyards. He has shaped the development, long-term, of the fine fruit that we grow here. We could not imagine anyone better in his position.

RED: Tell me about your 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon.

ASSET: As you know, ‘04 was a stellar year. We joke that if a winemaker couldn’t produce great wine – of any kind – in 2004, they should probably fine another career!

RED: Well, I do find 2004 Napa Cabs to be particularly great…

ASSET: Yeah, they are. This wine has all of the classic rich black cherry and cassis flavors, with a great feel and perfect finish. We think that its great to drink now, but also has amazing aging potential.

RED: Thanks for your time. Now get back to harvesting those great Summers grapes! Our Operatives are relying on you to continue to produce great wines. We’ve become big fans!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Summers Estate can be seen in this satellite photo.

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